Amsterdam. Enough said.

You know you are in a special place in your life, your marriage, and your familial relationships, when you find yourself enjoying, with your in-laws, all the activities that make Amsterdam!

After settling into our apartment, we realized that there is no ground coffee for the coffee maker. Here begins the story. We figured we would find a convenience or grocery store during our wanderings and pick up some coffee.

While waiting outside our dinner restaurant for a side-walk table, my mother-in-law (MIL) spotted a “coffee shop”. Figuring that she shouldn’t be walking alone in Amsterdam, I went with her. The turn-style should have tipped me off! So, we walk up to the counter and my MIL starts talking to the “waiter”, or whatever he was. Simultaneously, I look down and find a “menu” and am suddenly realizing that we are not so much in a coffee shop, as…well…a shop selling Amsterdam’s favorite crop. My MIL is already engaged in the following conversation:

MIL: Do you sell individual bags?

Guy: No.

MIL: Oh, ok. We were hoping to buy a bag to take home and make in the morning.

Guy: No, you can only have it here.

MIL: Ok, thanks!

What’s hilarious is that the conversation worked perfectly on both levels. The participants, however, just happened to have very different perspectives…and desired outcomes.

For those of you already well-versed in the “coffee” culture of Amsterdam, I realize that I have just made myself a very attractive target for mockery. However, in my own defense, there are just as many “coffee” shops that actually sell coffee!

Now, back on the street, I am laughing and telling my MIL what really was for sale there. I suggest we go into the shop next door. I full out knew that we were walking into a sex shop. Less than a minute later, I hear, “Ohhh!! Joe would love this!” from behind my back.

In my memory, the next few seconds occur in slow-motion, taking an eternity to actually pass into reality. I turn around, un-controllable laughter already starting an internal battle with pure curiosity regarding what my MIL thinks her son would enjoy in the sex-shop and is suggesting to his wife! A myriad of possibilities are flashing before my eyes, both literally and figuratively as I turn. She has found a system for making boob-shaped pancakes. Yup, Joe probably would like that.

After struggling to recount the events of the last five minutes to the boys without crying or peeing my pants with laughter, my FIL claims that he knew exactly what the two of us were getting into. Classic. Thanks General.  So, what does any other family do after dinner while visiting Amsterdam? Well, hello? Head to the Red Light District, of course!

Sorry, no pictures to share. Walking through sex ladened, prostitute-lined streets with my husband and in-laws, one of which wears stars on his epaulettes, was experience enough. Taking pictures would have made the evening a little awkward!

Ironically, the Red Light District is the direct proximity of Amsterdam’s Oude Kerk (Old Church). After visiting the church the following day, I snapped this picture of the family. If you can find the prostitute, you can pick out a treat from the prize box!

My favorite part of the Oude Kerk were the choir stalls. Carved into the bottom of each chair is a proverb:

“Money doesn’t fall out of my arse”: money doesn’t grow on trees.

 

 

 

“It’s like trying to out-yawn an oven door”: a person can’t yawn as wide as an oven door, i.e. don’t try to accomplish the impossible.

 

 

 

When you step out of the church- just in case you forgot where you were- there is a little reminder in the sidewalk, bringing you back to reality. Back to the indulgences of Amsterdam!

In all seriousness, Amsterdam is more than boobs and bongs. The Anne Frank House is stirring, regardless of your familiarity with her diary. Sadly, very little of it is original. However, the moveable bookshelf and the pencil markings made by Otto Frank denoting the changing heights of Anne and her sister are still there. The magazine cut-outs and pictures that Anne glued to the walls of her bedroom are also preserved, but even more interesting are the stories behind the photos: who the people are, how they discovered themselves on the walls of Anne’s bedroom, and what they hope they meant to Anne.

Even more famous than Anne Frank are Amsterdam’s tulips.  If you can’t go during the spring bloom, the flower market is the next best thing. Almost any kind of flower you want, and of course….un-ending tulip bulbs!

Lastly, on your way out of the market, don’t forget to select your condom for the day night!

Romeo, Juliet, Aida

Verona, Italy is best known as the residence of star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet. Although these fictional characters are over 400 years old, they are just that: fictional characters. The beautiful thing about Verona is that it allows Shakespeare devotees to blur the lines between reality and fiction.

Juliet’s house– After walking through a short entrance littered in love-graffiti, this is the first sign I spotted.

It reads (in short): This is a historical monument. Help us keep it clean…It is forbidden to damage or smear/smudge the walls. According to criminal law, offenses will be avenged with up to one year prison sentence or a fine of €1,039. I thought it was really fun for several reasons: 1) I understood it. 2) the irony of sign and wall. I waited patiently for the German-speakers to get out of the way so I could take a good shot and then wandered through throngs of people to find Joe and show him my clever discovery. He gave me a courteous sympathy-smile, then pointed out the same sign written in half a dozen other languages. Whatever.

Speaking of signs that tell you not to do things, this is a good one:

There are hundreds of locks in the courtyard, each one professing its own vow of love. (Hopefully each lover’s fate is better than Romeo’s and Juliet’s!)

Then there is Juliet herself, willing to be molested thousands of times a day, in the name of luck. Or love. Whichever you trust more.

Joe cops a feelski, in hopes of scoring some luck. Watch it buddy!

 

Juliet’s tomb– Despite 95o+ temps and oppressing humidity, I made Joe walk across town to find Juliet’s tomb, mainly out of curiosity. I mean, how could a fictional character be buried in a tomb? Shockingly, you have to PAY to find out. Out of principal, I didn’t want to pay, but curiosity was victorious this time. You need a large suspension of disbelief to really enjoy this. I’ll give it to the Italians. They have mastered the art of The Entrance Fee.

If you build it, they will come.

 

Ok, now for the real reason we came to Verona….performance of Aida at the Verona Opera Festival!

We figured the best way to see an opera, was in Italy, at the Arena di Verona. This amphitheater models Rome’s Colosseum and holds a festival each summer with 5 different productions. The sets are kept outside during the day, and re-assembled on stage each night for a different performance, via crane.

Arena di Verona and set materials.

 

 

It was a beautiful and slightly breezy night, great for sharing an opera with our Florentian friends, the Flammias,  and thousands of other spectators.

Flammias and Walls

Photography wasn’t allowed during the performance, but a few illegals never hurt…right?

Act II

 

Find the 4 horses on stage!

Death scene

 

Just as amazing as the show, was an Italian man (I assume) across the arena from us. After a great song (there were many), before the rest of the audience had time to react, he would yell “Bravo” or “Bravi”. The acoustics in the area are so good, that none of the performers use microphones, and this guy could be heard clear as day, every time. His joy added to the ambience of the entire experience.

I don’t think we’ll need to see another opera in our lives. It just can’t top this!

Italy’s Lakes

How to beat the Italian heat, Wall style!

We knew our sojourn to northern Italy was going to be a scorcher: 90o+ each day, horrid humidity. The thought of walking around crowded cities, trying to feign interest in churches and monuments, whilst lugging a panting dog, just sounded dreadful. So, we opted instead to spend two days on Italy’s lakes: Como and Garda.

Lake Como – Our first stop was the town of Como, itself. Sadly, George Clooney was nowhere to be found.

The Walls looking hot in Como (and I don’t mean sexy).

Como’s Duomo and crazy hill-top Villas.

 

Then, we headed to the beautiful town of Bellagio, known for its ritzy villas. No Clooney here either.

The streets of Bellagio.

 

Driving around Lake Como was no joke. Steep cliffs on one side. Straight down to the lake on the other. Hair-pin turns. Narrow roads. Confident resident drivers. Whoa! Don’t forget about the bicyclists, who put their lives in even greater risk than the drivers. We had it all!

 

 

Lake Garda – First stop around Lake Garda was the town of Lazise, where everyone got suited up for some swimming!

Yes, our dog has a life preserver. Safety first, bro. She clearly loves it!

After trying to wade through the stone, mud, gravel bottom of the lake, we made a critical decision that saved the day….

…rent a paddle boat!!

With a slide? YES, PLEASE!!!

 

I mean, come on, a girl who looks this good in a life preserver deserves to spend her day on a luxury paddle boat!

 

Our final stop on Lake Garda was the town of Torri del Benaco, for a snack and to let Liv get her land-legs back!

Torri del Benaco and Lake Garda