The Gibraltarians

With 30,000 residents, of which 20,000 are “Gibraltarians” (people born and raised on Gibraltar), Europe’s most famous rock is an interesting mix of Spain, the United Kingdom, and North Africa.

For hundreds of years, Gibraltar has been an important asset, militarily as well economically speaking. It still is, to this day, because whoever controls Gibraltar controls the Strait. Hundreds of ships move through the Strait each day.

View of Gibraltar from inside the siege tunnels. Any flat land on Gibraltar is actually reclaimed land.

View of Gibraltar from inside the siege tunnels. Any flat land on Gibraltar is actually reclaimed land.

Gibraltar has belonged to the United Kingdom since 1704, with 14 sieges in its sordid history. The Great Siege in 1779 lasted 3 years, 7 months, and 12 days! Between the tunnels created during the sieges and the natural caves, it is a wonder the hollow-like rock is still standing today!

St. Michael's Cave has evidence of Neanderthal men living here in 40,000 BC!

St. Michael’s Cave has evidence of Neanderthal men living here in 40,000 BC!

Listening to our tour guide was quite interesting because he provided a lot of insight into what life as a Gibraltarian is really like–things we would never have learned from just seeing the sights. Gibraltarians really feel like they live in their own country and are their own people. There is still oppression from Spain, yet they feel quite distant from the Queen. The use of Gibraltar as an entry point for North Africans to smuggle Hashish causes an entirely different set of problems and feelings. Many Gibraltarians can’t keep up with the steadily increasing cost of living but don’t want to leave the rock because they don’t feel at home anywhere else.

Highest point of Gibraltar and Morocco in the distance.

Highest point of Gibraltar and Morocco in the distance.

And then there are these Gibraltarians…the 207 macaques that have come across the Strait from Morocco, which is only 14km/9 miles away. They are the only remaining free roaming primates in Europe.
monkeyA perfect example of what happens when the line between humans and animals becomes too thin, the macaques are unnerving/frightening thieves who could also be considered dangerous. The Parliament of Gibraltar has talked about removing the entire population from the island, but they view the monkeys through green, tourist-dollar-colored glasses.
Jason & monkeyEven though it is illegal to feed them, they don’t really need your handout. They will take…and do…whatever they please. Just ask my friend Denise’s ice cream. Actually, that ice cream is long gone. Better ask Joe, he has a good story!

Achtung! Monkey in the vehicle!

Achtung! Monkey in the vehicle!

Regardless of our run-ins with the macaques, it was a beautiful day in the UK!

Der Romantische Rhine

Two days, two boat trips, four castle tours. At least that was the plan.

My mom, sister and I headed to the Romantic Rhine for two days of ‘castle-ing’!  Day one went great. First stop was Burg Rheinstein, which had a beautiful terrace, creepy crypt, and extra-tall tower to climb. Then we moved on to the ‘Castle of Death’, Burg Reichenstein. Owned by Friedrich Wilhelm Utsch, who was an avid hunter…every square inch of the castle interior was covered in mounted trophies! What a wonderful room of death!” (insert Ace Ventura voice here).

Burg Reichenstein

Burg Reichenstein

Whilst riding the boat down the Rhine, you can really see how close together all of these castles are. It was interesting that back in the day, each castle and its surrounding areas were ruled by a separate monarchic family. Merchants transporting their wares would have to pay a toll at each of the castles in order to continue their voyage. Some castles had long chains that spread across the river, which were raised or lowered depending on confirmation of toll payment.

Burg Pfalzgrafenstein is probably the Rhine’s most famous castle, located in the middle of the river and resembling a massive stone ship.

Burg Pfalzgrafenstein and Burg Gutenfels on the hill.

Burg Pfalzgrafenstein and Burg Gutenfels on the hill.

Day two started out with a healthy hike up the hill to Marksburg. The tours were only in German, but my mom and sister were good Sports about it and followed along as best as possible with the English handouts. Marksburg is the Rhine’s oldest original castle, suffering no pillage, fire, or war during its 900+ year history.

Marksburg

Marksburg

After Marksburg, with blue skies and sun overhead, we headed to the boat to move onto the next castle. This is what we found…

flooding

Even though the boat company told us that the chances of services running today were 90%, there was SO much flooding along the Rhine, that the boat was prevented from safely docking. Mind you, we had disembarked here successfully the evening prior and there was no rain during the night. Oh well! I guess this is what that remaining10% looks like…sad boaters.

Sad Boaters

Sad Boaters

As we were making a Plan B, the dock operator showed up on his bike, waded knee-deep into the water, turned around, and then left. Short workday, I guess. Lucky guy. With minimal delay we were on the way again, thanks to the German train system!

Last stop was a funicular trip up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. What was so amazing about Ehrenbreitstein was that there was evidence of fortifications on the site dating back to 1000BC! I mean, I understand Carbon-14 dating and all that, but I still think it is totally amazing that archeologists can determine exactly what was happening at the site that long ago.

Ehrenbreitstein also has a fantastic view of Koblenz, where the Rhine meets the Mosel. Check out all the flooding on the right side of the picture!

view

Two days, one boat trip, one train ride, four castle tours. Just a slight modification of the plan! A huge thank you to my sister and Mom: for being flexible, for being patient with my freak-outs, and for eating the lard-spread that showed up at our dinner table.  I love you both. You are amazing castle-goers!

Das Stocherkahnrennen

Every year, the college town of Tübingen holds a “Stocherkahnrennen” on the Neckar River. Basically, a fraternity punt-boat race! There were fifty-five punt boats entered this year to race 2km up and down the river…all for a barrel of beer…which the cultural office pays for!

The crowds and the punters were getting ready pretty early along the Neckar.

River

But first, the Kostümparade (costume parade)!

There were some Spidermen…

spider man

…and some Hula-men.

You know you’re in for an interesting day, when the ambulance is on-call and ready to go!

You know you’re in for an interesting day, when the ambulance is on-call and ready to go!

The A-team had a small run-in with the tourist boat.

A-team

Then there were these guys. I’m not sure how a German flag constitutes a costume, but hey, that’s one way to do it!

german flag

Here were the winners of the costume parade…the Lego-men! They were pretty impressive!

legos

Finally, it was time to start the race. 1km downstream and then 1km upstream.

racing

Of course, there was a catch: halfway through the race, the punt boats had to make a 180o U-turn through the “needle eye”. About 10 feet across, the “needle eye” is where all the drama of the race takes place: traffic jams, collisions, shoving, sinking!

The "needle eye"

The “needle eye”

Everything started pretty calm in the beginning.

Looks like the spider-men had a busy day!

Looks like the spider-men had a busy day!

Just a few crashes…

crash

…a few men overboard…

A-team

…and even some voluntary disembarkments.

Hopefully the knee pads will help him float.

Hopefully the knee pads will help him float.

Then, more of the 55 boats started coming into the danger zone…all at the same time.

punting

Eventually, no one was moving. The boats had totally jammed themselves into the tiny crevice under the bridge! Emergency services were not needed, thank goodness, and the boats slowly pushed and shoved themselves out of the needle eye. After the 1km haul upstream to the finish line, the losers got to claim their prize…a liter of cod-liver oil, which they had to drink in front of all the other boats.

We didn’t stick around for the “drinking ceremony”, but at 54 losing boats, about 6 members per boat, I calculate over 300 liters of cod-liver oil imbibed! Gross!

I never thought I would stand over the Neckar River and watch a bunch of boys put so much effort into winning a free barrel of beer! I guess this is just another delightful discovery we were able to enjoy during our journey though Germany. Maybe we’ll return to Tübingen sometime and try out those punt boats ourselves!