Köln, Germany

Millions of tourists and pilgrims trek to Köln every year to see the famed Dom. Construction of the present Dom took over 600 years to complete, with short breaks due to poverty and war. Despite the destruction of 90% of Köln during WWII, the Dom continued to dominate the Rhine river-front.

The construction and magnificence of the Dom has been a priority for Kölners since the 12th century for one reason: the reliquary. The Shrine of the Three Magi took 40 years to build and in 1164 became home to relics from the three kings. Specifically, the skulls. Skeptical that these craniums could still be intact since that starry night in the manger? Schedule your personal Köln pilgrimage for January 6th, Feast of the Epiphany, when the reliquary is open for all to see.

The Dom walls house over 10,000m2 of glass! Some of the glass is original from the 13th century, having been removed and stored before WWII, while other pieces are as new as 2007.

No visit to the Dom is complete without a 500+ step climb to the top of the spire! Somewhere around step #200-ish is the Peter Bell. This monster is the largest working bell in the world, weighing in at 24 tons!

Die Spargelzeit

Das Königliche Gemüse  ~ The kingly vegetable

It is Spargel Season in Germany! For 8 weeks, from mid-April (give or take) through June 24 the country goes wild over this vegetable delight. Every corner has a local vendor, every restaurant has a unique menu, and every German only has a few precious weeks to indulge!

Literally, Spargel means asparagus. However, the obsession focuses only on white asparagus, which is sweeter and more tender. This zartes Elfenbein (tender ivory) is grown in large mounds and covered with black tarp until harvest time, which prevents photosynthesis from occurring and ensures that the product remains colorless. If allowed to photosynthesize, flower, and continue growing, the Spargel will turn green, and ultimately lose its magic, and perhaps the love of millions of people.

I’m not exaggerating when I say that the country loses its mind for the Frühlingswonne (springtime delight). There are festivals, bicycle tours, contests, beauty pageants, and every conceivable concoction of culinary combination. So, this being our first Spring in Germany, we joined the masses and caught “Spargel Fever”!

Spargel Fest – The rain washed away most of Spargel Fest and we went home empty handed. Hoping for better luck next time!

Spargel Harvest – I really didn’t know what to expect with this adventure, since all I was going on was a one-sentence description from the Internet and a few e-mail exchanges with the city tourist office. The German verb for “to harvest” wasn’t even part of the description, so I was just assuming that was what we were going to do. I mean, what else is there to do?

When we arrived, we were given gloves, a basket, some tools, and a 2-minute lesson on how to harvest the Weißgold (white gold). Then, we were left to do the work and take home whatever spoils we could uncover!

The local TV station was also there, and Joe made his pubic debut in German!

Joe's 8 seconds of fame

Even the Spargel Queen had her moment in the spotlight.

the Spargel Königin

The harvesting crowd was quite diverse. In addition to the Spargel Queen, and the tourists (us), there were plenty of children, and a few women who needed a lesson in how to dress for field work. There was a particular lady who was wearing a dress so short, that the entire world saw her skivvies while she was harvesting. No joke. These weren’t even like the cute bloomers that cheerleaders wear because they know everyone will see under their skirts. These were straight-up, mom panties! Her kids were even there to prove it.

I'm sorry. It was hard to resist.

Spargel Schnapps

After we bagged our bounty for the day and washed up, the owners of the farm had made some delicious Spargel, ham, and egg salad for everyone to enjoy. We were also treated to some Spargel Schnapps and Spargel-shaped sweets! Yup, you saw it here first. I told you they were crazy about this stuff!

 

 

Spargel Dessert

An afternoon with Mom and Joe + digging through the dirt for farm-fresh Spargel = best 5 Euro I ever spent!

 

 

 

Spargel Cooking Class – After a half-hour lecture auf Deutsch on the history, quality levels, nutritional value, and some other topics I obviously didn’t have the vocabulary for about Spargel, we headed into the kitchen! Since this was the first cooking class that the three of us had ever taken, we were totally unprepared. Everyone stepped into their respective cooking stations and took out their aprons and personal hand towels…except us!

Joe was the Chief Translator, mom the Chief Chopper, and I only washed my attempt at salad dressing down the sink once. At the end of class, we compiled the 7 different recipes (including Spargel Spaghetti, Sesame Seed-Teryaki Spargel, Baked Spargel, and Strawberry Spargel Salad) and enjoyed our feast.

Next year, if we are going to get this involved in Spargel, I am going to invest in some nose plugs!

Kuhtrekking

We have ridden horses through the Costa Rican mountains and mules through the Grand Canyon. So, I figured the best way to celebrate my mom’s visit, Mother’s Day, and her upcoming birthday was to ride some cows through the Swiss countryside!

Is that a baby inside?

Six Jersey/Holstein cows were all set and ready to go when we arrived at this 100% organic farm. The farm owner told us to go ahead and pick out our cows. Mom chose the closest one, Umbra, who was three weeks from delivering a calf and wider than she was high! I chose the cow standing right next to Mom’s, Colli, just because she was convenient.

 

 

First the farmer explained that we were going to lead the cows in order to get to know them before we mounted up. The only thing we really needed to know was that a 1500lb cow is going to do what she wants, no matter what we thought! As we walked down the road we had to move over every time a car wanted to pass. The looks on the driver’s faces were priceless! As they passed, I tried to give each one a variation on the same basic expression: I can’t believe I am doing this either! No translation needed there.

After about half an hour, we climbed aboard and headed into the countryside. It was a comedy of errors as everyone struggled to steer their mount and avoid fountains of manure and urine.

Ladies' Day Out

Sometime later, we walked up to a grove of trees and were told to get off the cows. We tied them to the trees, gave them some hay, and then enjoyed a lunch snack in the middle of the woods. Everything on the table was organic and made from products grown on the farm.

During our lunch, several of the cows had laid down to chew their cud. The farmer said to just hop right on! Don’t forget that this heifer is pregnant, as you watch Mom rise to glory! (click here)

After lunch we continued through the countryside for about an hour and half, stopping to let the cows take a short break in the Rhine River!

There was only a small altercation with the visiting swan.

After the day was finished, we “un-saddled” the cows and then they just walked around the farm, doing what they pleased. Thankfully, we didn’t get a chance to ride this guy.

Water Buffalos

It was definitely a unique experience, watching my mom struggle with a one-ton, pregnant, ornery cow!

Mom & Umbra