die Einmann Schau

This was our first Christmas without family or close friends near-by, so to get in the holiday spirit, Joe and I decided to buy tickets to a production of A Christmas Carol at the local theatre. It turned out to be an experience full of surprises!

We had the tickets several weeks in advance and were actually really looking forward seeing our first play in German. As an early Christmas gift, Joe gave me the Robert Zemeckis version of Eine Weihnachts Geschichte on DVD and we watched it in English (with German subtitles) as a refresher. I played Ebenezer Scrooge in the 6th grade Holiday Play, so I needed little to trigger my memory of the story’s details! (To be honest, I had to write most of my lines 25 times each because I kept messing them up. I can still recite several of them today. However, the demise of my acting career is a tale for another time.)

Surprise #1 – The day before the production, a friend told Joe that it would be presented in English. Oh, really?! We were disappointed, but more so confused about how this critical piece of information went un-noticed.

Surprise #2 – We decided to go to the Christmas market before the show started and have dinner there. The theater was on the same street as the market, so we stopped by to confirm what time the doors opened. The poster on the window advertised, “A Christmas Carol – Brian Barnes, One Man Theatre”. Oh, really? This detail must have been lost in translation. For the entirety of dinner, we contemplated how it would be possible to reenact the story with only one person. Joe’s hypothesis: holograms. Mine: smoke and mirrors.

We got into the theater and found a seat. The stage contained only 5 items: a desk, a chair, a coat rack, a sleeping jacket, and a night cap. Ok, a prop-less, back drop-less, one man theatre it is! Then a weird phone started ringing. Not someone’s cell phone, but an old-school real phone, from somewhere within the theater. Joe leans in for his best Brian Barnes impression, “I’m sorry, its Brian. I’m sick. The show is cancelled.” The phone rings again a few minutes later. Me, “Hi, its Brian. I really am hung over. Do I have an under-study?” It rings a third time, some minutes later. “Perhaps someone in the audience can do the show. You really only need just one.”

So it begins. One man who is at least 70 years old, five props, and two native English speakers at the English presentation of A Christmas Carol. Here comes surprise #3 – all the Germans, for whom English is a second language don’t forget, are laughing at jokes…in English…that I don’t get! Oh, really? What is going on here?!

We sit for an hour and a half straight, fixated on one man telling the story of one Christmas Eve in London. It was amazing. He was a true story-teller, with no pomp and circumstance needed to weave a tale of fear, enlightenment, and redemption. A reminder of the forgotten entertainment of yesteryear.

After thunderous applause from the audience of 50ish, he uttered the only three German words of the evening, “Would you like eine kleine Zugabe?” (a small encore?)

As we walked home I pondered the last surprising realization for the evening (#4): How can a 70+ year old man remember a 90+ minute monologue, while I struggle to remember 5- vocabulary words in German from one day to the next?

God bless us, everyone!

die Weihnachtsmärkte

Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas Markets) are definitely all that they are cracked up to be in Germany. I  must admit, we were kind of slutty in visiting as many as possible this year.

Freiburg – We started of at the home front, taking Liv to the Freiburg Market on its opening day. The market is quaint, with the Rathaus proudly lit in the background.

Freiburg Rathaus

Including Liv in the adventure was not a good idea. The ground was covered in so many delicious morsels to vacuum up that we were literally dragging her by the collar to the point of choking. Breathing or eating? Breathing or eating? My dear Hündchen always picks eating!

We tried to carry her, but due to tight quarters, she started plate-and-cup-surfing from beneath my arm!

Hungry Hund

 

Heidelberg – Next was Heidelberg with 5 different markets in total. The Schloss is a beautiful backdrop for ice skating at Karlsplatz (and also on the list of 1000 Places!!).  The picture below is of a German candle pyramid. These are typical German Christmas decorations and can range from very simple to quite lavish. Before people had access to books, history was told through stories and plays. Parents would make small little people and adorn a multi-level pyramid with them. Then, candles were lit, which created enough heat to move the propellers of the wind-mill. As the wind-mill turned the figures on the pyramid, parents would tell their children the associated story.

German candle pyramid

This one was particularly large and hosted a Glühwein stand below! I wonder if it would fit in my apartment? I would let the neighbors have as much free Glühwein as they wanted!

 

Mannheim –Mannheim is really close to Heidelberg, so we took a day trip here to check out the Christmas Market where “Santa goes to shop”! The Wasserturm (Water Tower) is beautiful and the market completely encircles it. 

Mannheim Wasserturm

We discovered “Langos” at the Mannheim Market, a delicious Hungarian treat! Deep fried flat bread, covered in your personal selection of toppings. We went for the traditional sour cream and cheese. Yum!

Mannheim Weihnachtsmarkt

 

Nürnberg – The Nürnberg Market definitely had the most character! There are so many visual delights at each of the stalls, that it is easy to forget to look up and see the beautiful landmarks of the city. The market is nestled so perfectly amongst the 14th century Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), 14th century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), and 13th century St. Sebalduskirche, Nürnberg’s oldest church.

Ornament and decoration stall

 

13th century St. Sebalduskirche

Then, to top it all off, every once in a while a festively decorated horse-drawn carriage rolls by. When there are Clydesdales, you know you’re in a good place!

Clydesdales on Fleisch brüke

What was really interesting was that each of Nürnberg’s sister cities (Nice, France – Glasgow, Scotland, Prague, CR – Atlanta – Venice, Italy – and more) had its own stall with local/typical food and wares. “Atlanta” was selling Oreos, Harley-Davidson products, Jim Beam, Hershey’s, and traditional stockings, just to name a few. Funny.

Weihnachtsmark stalls on the Hauptmarkt

 

Colmar, France – It’s not Germany, and therefore not a “German Christmas Market” I know. However, the conversation usually goes like this: Want to go to France for the evening? Sure, why not. So we did, and it was well worth the trip!

There were many different squares in Colmar, filled with Christmas goodies. We wandered from street to street with our friends, enjoying the picturesque atmosphere of Colmar at night, decked out for the season. We finished up the evening with chocolate crepes…délicieux.

Colmar, France

 

Munich – Munich had endless options for marketing, and according to 1000 Places To See Before You Die, is only rivaled by Nürnberg. Good thing we went to both! The Medieval Market in Munich was serving up Mead and fish right off the wood-burning stove. Another market had an ice skating rink, for anyone who was brave enough and willing to become the evening’s entertainment for those watching from the viewing deck.

We discovered Glühbier at the Munich Christmas Market! It is hot, cherry-flavored beer!

Glühbier and Christmas Beer

 

Pink Christmas

We also discovered “Pink Christmas” in Munich, the all-pink, gay, Christmas Market.

 

 

 

 

Munich has an amazing Neues Rathaus (NewTown Hall). The architecture is so ornate and Gothic that you think it is a church at first glance. The church, Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), is actually the two domes with the clocks in the left of the picture.

Neues Rathaus and Frauenkirche

Together, with the Weihnachtsbaum (Christmas tree), they create a beautiful backdrop for reveling in the Christmas spirit on Marienplatz.

The Walls on Marienplatz

 

So, you ask, which market was my favorite?  The one with the Glühwein and the good company!

 

der Weihnachtsbaum

Oh Tannenbaum, Oh Tannenbaum, how lovely are your branches?

You would think, in the land of Christmas Trees, at the foot of the Black Forest, that we would have a Weihnachtsbaum fit for a holiday card. Well, I am going to hope that all the beautiful trees are still standing, cleaning the Earth, and providing visual pleasure for countless years to come. I say thins because it seems that only the scraggly and unsightly trees are available for gracing the homes of Freiburgers.

History first: In the 16th century, German Christians brought decorated trees into their homes and are accredited with starting the Christmas tree tradition. It is rumored that Martin Luther, the 16th century Protestant reformer, first added candles to a tree. In the 1830s German settlers in Pennsylvania were the first ones to bring the Christmas tradition to America. Christmas tree ornaments were shipped from Germany in the 1890s, at a time when Christmas trees and ornaments were seen as pagan symbols by Americans. You’d think all these years of practice would yield some really great Christmas trees!

Reality next: Our Weihnachtsbaum is far from post-card quality. The first challenge was where to buy one. I asked my German teacher and she had no idea. We went to the Rathaus (Town Hall) and they were of little help. We ended up at the German version of Home Depot, which had about 3 parking spaces worth of selection. Every tree had at least two feet of branch-less trunk at the top and the rest was so sparse you could see through to the other side. After looking at four or five different trees, the man pulls one out and says, “DAS ist ein Tannenbaum!” (THAT is a fir tree!) He was pretty pumped about it. So I said, “Dann, das ist UNSER Tannenbaum!” (Then, that is OUR fir tree!) We loaded it into the trunk of our sedan, drove home, put it in the elevator, and then got to work!

Hanging the lights was an interesting task. I pretty much created a tangled mess of wires and lights where branches should be. I told Joe he had to take them all off in January. Poor kid.

The top of the trunk was about four inches too long to accommodate the star. I didn’t feel like trying to cut it with scissors, so I just folded it over. I expected it to snap and break, but no, it was just like folding a Twizzlers. Hmmm…that’s a new one.

The ornaments had to go through several screening processes since we were limited on space. To all those who didn’t make the cut: Sorry, try again next year.

The tree has been standing for several weeks now, thank goodness. We chose not to buy European Christmas lights, so we have the strands plugged into a transformer. It is always a surprise what the lights will look like when they are plugged in. Some strands go on, others don’t. Some turn off when they get too “tired”. Sometimes the entire tree just goes dark. We don’t ever leave the tree unattended, as it surely is a fire-hazard.

To top it all off, we get to keep the tree until January 18th! That is the only day that tree-pick up occurs on our street. Regardless of its idiosyncrasies, at its resemblance to Charlie Brown’s tree, it is our German Christmas tree and it makes us laugh.

Oh Tannenbaum, Oh Tannenbaum, your branches green delight us.